Thought Behind Things

Building the biggest clothing e-commerce brand in Pakistan

Umar Kamar built ELO into a seven-year success story by solving a real problem, staying profitable, and avoiding the startup trap of chasing funding.

  • Ep 13
  • Oct 19, 2020
  • 6 min read

Audio-only episode. Listen here:

The Faisalabad Advantage

Muzamil opens the episode by noting how unusual Umar’s path is. While most founders in Pakistan chase venture funding and build in Lahore, Islamabad, or Karachi, Umar stayed in Faisalabad, the heart of Pakistan’s textile supply chain. When Umar returned from Scotland in 2013, his father offered him a factory director role. But Umar knew he couldn’t add value that way. “You don’t know anything,” his father told him. “You need to build up.” The constraint became the edge.

Faisalabad contributes 30 to 40 percent of Pakistan’s textile output. Umar sat in the middle of a network of factory owners, most of them classmates’ families. When European and North American orders landed at nearby factories, the excess inventory had nowhere to go. “If someone was building in Islamabad or Lahore,” Umar says, “the network and reach would have been much more difficult. Because I was sitting in the epicenter of the leftover industry of Pakistan.”

From Accident to Business Model

The first breakthrough was accidental. In 2013, Umar and his wife placed an order with his father’s factory. A Canadian buyer went bankrupt mid-year, leaving Umar holding expensive inventory he couldn’t resell through traditional channels. Rather than warehouse it, he tried selling online. Muzamil asks the natural follow-up: how did you price it?

“We thought about it,” Umar explains. “A sweatshirt selling in Canada for 8 or 9 dollars, we saw it in Zainab Market for 400 to 500 rupees. We priced it at 600 to 700 rupees, so we were actually making a loss in the beginning.” The insight was simple. “I didn’t see opportunity cost. Either the inventory stays in my factory or it goes to the market at 400 rupees, so I have to sell it for more than 400. This was a simple formula.”

His first friends and university classmates ordered. They kept coming back. By early 2014, word was spreading through Faisalabad that you could buy premium export-grade garments for a third of retail. The repeat customer ratio climbed.

The Drug You Can’t Live Without

Muzamil observes something striking about the brand: “You just have to buy once, after that you just keep coming back. You’ve made a drug that you can’t live without.” Umar smiles at the description. The pricing structure is part of it. T-shirts selling at 200 to 300 rupees, sizes running from small to 8XL, meant that almost everyone could find something. But retention is driven by trust.

In January 2014, ELO introduced a 30-day money-back guarantee. “We were the first company in Pakistan to introduce that policy,” Umar says. “In America and London, if you don’t like something, you return it. We thought, why not bring that here?” The experience mattered more than the margin. When customers see that a business believes in its products, they stop shopping defensively. They take bigger risks, buy more often.

Direct sales account for 60 percent of orders; social media brings 40 percent. The best marketing is the customer who posts about ELO on Facebook, telling their friends to check it out. Muzamil has seen it himself. “Half of the recommendations on my Instagram were export leftovers.”

The Polo Republica Play

Seven years in, ELO needed a layer. Umar’s father’s factory had minimum orders that left unsold inventory. Polo Republica solved it by using fabric scraps. When a client ordered polo shirts, the collar and body fabric came from different suppliers. By the time the main body was sewn, leftover collar fabric sat unused. Umar reverse-engineered the problem. “We started making collar bags from the collar fabric. We used the zip, the button, whatever was left over, and we made a product out of it.”

The brand came from an Eid memory. Umar saw someone wearing a shilwar kameez with a Polo Ralph Lauren logo. “It’s very interesting that Pakistani and Polo Ralph Lauren imagery blend together. So I said this is aspirational and Pakistani at the same time.” Polo Republica was born, and it now accounts for 40 percent of sales.

It brought a legal challenge. Ralph Lauren’s team sent a cease-and-desist notice. After a settlement in London, Umar agreed not to use a polo-pony logo but kept the name. “They have so much strict copyright and trademark. We didn’t know it, but polo as a sport is now just associated with Ralph Lauren.”

Logistics and the Margin Problem

E-commerce in Pakistan looks simple until you scale. Muzamil presses Umar on the hard problems. “When you’re selling a t-shirt for 300 rupees,” Umar says, “you don’t have much money to spend on advertising.” Courier companies are the real constraint. “Our return percentage was 5 to 10 percent, now we’ve reached 10 percent because of daily deals and flash sales. If a customer’s order misses the deal window, they return it.”

Working on razor-thin margins, Umar can’t absorb the cost of free returns. TCS and call courier have both closed their returns operations. The market gap is wide. Whoever builds a logistics network that handles returns like Amazon does will unlock category growth. “Logistics, if it’s a little bit better,” Umar says, “everything changes.”

Why He Stayed Private

Muzamil asks the inevitable question: why no venture funding? Umar is direct. “I’m a businessman. For me, profit is like oxygen. Without oxygen the business dies.” He’s doubled sales every year organically. One million unique customers served. A profitable business running at scale. When venture capitalists come to Faisalabad, they don’t come. “There is no incubation center, no angel investor. I wasn’t distracted by that world because I wasn’t in it.”

Muzamil points out that this is actually an edge. When Umar talks to venture-backed founders, they’re chasing 50 times growth in a year. “In traditional e-commerce, you can do 10 times maximum. But if you’re talking about 50 times, I don’t even understand it. Why am I under such fresh pressure?”

By 2022, Umar’s goal is zero fabric waste. He’s already optimizing the next category: denim, leather, home goods. The opportunities in Pakistan are so vast that staying focused beats chasing capital. “My wife says I’m never going to be your boss, actually,” Umar laughs. “So I let her do whatever she wants.” When she resumes her shoe-merchandising career, ELO will have a whole new front.

Muzamil ends by telling Umar he’ll be a big name in Pakistan in 15 to 20 years. “I’ll be excited to be your friend when you’re there.”

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Muzamil Hasan speaking on stage